This weekend of
22/23 June sees Manchester’s Palace Hotel hosting the Greater Manchester Ciderand Perry Festival. I’m highly likely to be there at some point - for however
long - since I’m out on Saturday for an unofficial pre-stag do sort of thing -
all for one of my ushers who can’t make the real thing.
The festival is
organised by CAMRA, and is almost certain to be well attended. If previous
CAMRA events are anything to go by, it will be wall to wall with beardy,
middle-aged sandal wearers and thirty-something graduate types – among others,
of course. It’s usually a good crowd. The only negatives can be just how busy CAMRA
festivals do tend to get - combined with a lack of toilet facilities and
compounded by the tendency to run out of product well before the allotted
closing time. So get there early! It’s £3 on the door, or £2 if you’re a
member. That represents pretty good value.
If you want to know
more about ‘real’ cider and perry, check the ‘About Cider and Perry’ section of
the festival’s website. It seems CAMRA have drawn up a number of requirements
that need to be met if a beverage is to be considered real cider/perry. These
include the stipulation that it must not be carbonated, pasteurised,
micro-filtered or made from concentrate juice.
As a result, they
don’t consider pretty much any brand of cider you’ve heard of to be
‘real’ (sit down Aspall, Bulmers, Dry Blackthorn, Gaymer’s, Kopparberg,
Magners, Scrumpy Jack, Strongbow and Woodpecker - all of which feature
on their list of ‘ciders that CAMRA does not recognise as being real’ – in a
qualitative sense rather than an existential one, I’m sure), but they do
recognise that the marketing budgets of these artificial products have helped
to raise the profile of real cider. I suppose if people try a Magners, like it,
and then decide to try a different cider some time, and the one they pick
happens to be a real cider, that’s all well and good. Whether they prefer
the real cider, many of which have that special taste of the farmyard in
my opinion, is another matter. Nevertheless, more real ciders are more readily
available, so if you like booze, you’re winning.
I’m not sure where
Stella Artois’ new Cidre figures with CAMRA, but I’m guessing: not real.
My own personal
feeling about real cider is that I’m all for it. I don’t view the ‘artificial’
types with disdain as CAMRA do, but I do like a bit of alcoholic variety. How
important is it that cider is made in the traditional way? To me, not very as
long as an enjoyable drink is the result, and some ‘artificial’ ciders
are enjoyable, even refreshing while some real ciders are heavy, pungent
and hard to drink.
Is the issue that
appley alcoholic drinks shouldn’t be allowed to be called cider if they
don’t fulfil the criteria? Are those criteria nitpicking? Is it an obstinate
attack on the power of marketing, globalisation, capitalism itself? Is ‘cider’
such an aspirational label anyway? These are rhetorical questions all. It is
only CAMRA’s view that certain drinks shouldn’t be called cider. HM Revenue andCustoms aren’t quite so stringent, but in 2010 they decreed that to be calledcider, a drink must contain at least 35% apple or pear juice and have apre-fermentation gravity of at least 1033 degrees, in order to prevent cheap,high alcohol content drinks taking advantage of cider’s lower duty rates. I’ve no idea what pre-fermentation gravity
is, and frankly it looks too complicated to bother getting my head round right
now, but once again, thanks to Wikipedia for the factual information.
CAMRA certainly
favours the small producer, and there’s nothing wrong with that. It’s good that
there are people who are willing to promote and attempt to preserve traditional
products and techniques. I just don’t think you need to get all snooty, and look
down on things that don’t meet your standards – and that’s the impression
CAMRA gives sometimes. Just because a drink has been, for example, artificially
carbonated, doesn’t make it worse than another drink. Whether you prefer the
taste or not is up to you. Nor do I think it is just marketing that
makes people drink ‘artificial’ ciders. They wouldn’t continue to drink
them if they didn’t like them.
A pint of real cider
might not necessarily be as enjoyable as a pint of Magners (or it might be –
that’s up to you), but it’s certainly more interesting. You wouldn’t go to a
cider festival where ‘artificial’ ciders were all they had, would you? I
wouldn’t – you only need one or two artificial ciders before you’ve run the
whole gamut (if you’ll allow me to make a sweeping generalisation…) - so I’ll certainly
be popping along to enjoy a few farmyard delights on Saturday. See you
there.
Now, I know I promised to be more forthcoming with the booze porn this week, but I don't have any pictures of cider... nevertheless, here's a random picture from my file that probably won't fit in any other post, so enjoy.
Have a great weekend, and see you next week. I'm not sure what I'll be posting then.
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